My earliest foodie memory is living near Agincourt Mall in Scarborough, Toronto and grabbing Chinese food from a mom-and-pop restaurant in the mall with my parents and sisters. It was the first time I had rice with something else besides curry. Sticky rice was new and interesting to me, as was the umami flavours of soy sauce and tofu. Now, when I think back to all the key periods of my life to date, there’s a Chinese restaurant that kept me well-fed during that time. Chinese food has, and will always, be a nostalgic part of my food cravings.
Living in Toronto, I’m lucky to be in the city that’s home to the oldest Chinatown in North America (circa 1878). We have a large Chinese immigrant community. The food in Chinatown is a melting pot of many Asian cultures, including China, Taiwan, Vietnam, Pakistan and India. Our Chinatown is so large it’s divided into two Chinatowns: east and west. The west or downtown Chinatown, is located at Spadina Avenue and Dundas Street West, and it’s the most popular of the two locations for locals and tourists to visit.
In the past year, I’ve been exploring the other Chinatown in Toronto’s east-end neighbourhood of Riverdale. That strip of Gerrard Street East between Broadview Avenue and Carlaw Avenue is where I go to get tropical fruits all year round, plants for my garden, and affordable eats. Navigating East Chinatown restaurants and bakeries can be confusing with multiple shops selling similar delicacies. Below are some of my favourite places that I keep returning to for consistently reliable, cheap and cheerful food.
Hong Kong Egg Tarts from Tung Hing Bakery (353 Broadview Avenue)
North Americans love eggs for breakfast. But what the Chinese have perfected that I’d much rather have to scrambled/boiled/poached eggs, are Hong Kong egg tarts. A flaky pastry filled with sweet egg custard. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, then you’re missing out. They’re similar to Portuguese custard tarts (or pasteis de nata), except they’re eggier, less sweet, and don’t have caramelized cinnamon tops. For a few dollars, grab a few tarts to go and enjoy them across the street at Riverdale Park. Cash only.
Bánh Cuốn from Que Ling Vietnamese Cuisine (248 Boulton Avenue)
Que Ling is legendary, or as Suresh Doss put it, “by all measures… one of the pillars of Vietnamese dining in the city.” If you only have time to visit one spot in East Chinatown, then run here and try their bánh cuốn. It’s a popular, laborious breakfast dish in Northern Vietnam, which they’ve been making fresh in-house for over 25 years. They serve it the traditional way with a side of sausage and fish sauce for $11-13, with small- and large-size options. It’s my go-to whenever I’m in the area with cash in my pocket. There’s nothing like it anywhere else in the city. Their pho broth is also exceptional. Cash only. Open from 9 am-7 pm Wednesday-Monday.
Banh Mi from Banh Mi Huy-Ki (1046 Gerrard Street East)
It’s refreshing to still discover a cheap and cheerful meal in Toronto where food prices have skyrocketed since the pandemic. Banh My Huy-Ki serves up their signature banh mi sandwich with all the trimmings for only $5 cash. It’s the main draw here for the local school students, as well as workers on their lunch break. Their regular banh mi and BBQ pork are my personal favourites, but that’s not all they serve. If you’re looking for a gluten-free option, they have ready-to-go rice paper rolls filled with pork skin, shrimp, and veggies. Need a mid-afternoon caffeine fix? Definitely try their iced Vietnamese coffee. They import their coffee and condensed milk straight from Vietnam, and it’s an absolute treat for less than the price of an iced coffee these days ($4).
Lo Mai Gai - Dine & Dim (633 Gerrard Street East)
Lo mai gai is a traditional Chinese dish that translates to “sticky rice chicken”, and it is commonly served during dim sum. What first drew me to this dish was the rice wrapped and cooked in lotus leaves. Being Sri Lankan, it’s a treat when I get rice wrapped and cooked in banana leaves, so I knew this had to be good. And it consistently never disappoints. If you’re a fan of sticky rice, Chinese sausage and dried shiitake mushrooms like me, then you will keep coming back here for more. They used to sell 2 for $7.99, but now you can get a lotus pouch for $4.99 a piece. Be sure to reserve early if you want to eat here with a group for dim sum.
Ramen from Oji Seichi (354 Broadview Avenue)
I’m deviating away from China for this last one, but it’s worth a stop if you’re in East Chinatown. Chef Mitch Bates (formerly of Momofuku Shoto) knows a thing or two about ramen. The noodles here are made in-house using a noodle machine that was flown in from Japan. But the restaurant mainly focuses on using Japanese techniques with local, seasonal ingredients like Ontario meat and mushrooms, fish cakes made in Scarborough, and sea salt harvested in Vancouver. Unlike other ramen spots in the city which leave me feeling lethargic after slurping down a bowl, Oji Seichi’s broth is light and dashi-based, and made with chicken, pork, mussels, clams and a blend of aromatics. I’m satisfied without the need for an immediate nap, which my microbiome also appreciates. They’ve also got a mushroom-based vegetarian ramen that’s always on the menu, which I love and in my opinion, packs more umami flavour than its meaty counterparts. Their current menu is full of Mazeman ramen (a broth-less ramen originating from Nagoya) options for $15-24. Make sure to also try their sandys and snacks.
Other notable mentions:
Bamboo Leaves (649 Gerrard Street East) - fresh and frozen Cantonese-style zongzi (rice dumplings) in a variety of flavours, as well as sweets. Cash only, no seating.
Mi Mi (688 Gerrard Street East) - family-owned Vietnamese eatery serving pho, noodles, barbecued meats, and seafood. Cash only, but they also accept e-transfer.
Lamoon Thai Cafe (713 Gerrard Street East) - thai cafe serving an extensive menu of traditional savoury snacks and drinks with a twist.